What documents should I get when buying a used car?

What documents should I get when buying a used car?

What documents should I get when buying a used car?

Buying a used car can be a smart way to save money. However, to avoid nasty surprises down the road, make sure you’ve got the right paperwork in place before you hand over your cash. In this guide, we walk you through the essential documents you’ll need to receive, supply – and check – to ensure a smooth, stress-free purchase.

Disclaimer:

This article is not specific to the terms and conditions of your finance agreement with Oodle. If you have any questions or need support with your Oodle finance, please visit our Help Centre or contact our support team.

Disclaimer:

This article is not specific to the terms and conditions of your finance agreement with Oodle. If you have any questions or need support with your Oodle finance, please visit our Help Centre or contact our support team.

Disclaimer:

This article is not specific to the terms and conditions of your finance agreement with Oodle. If you have any questions or need support with your Oodle finance, please visit our Help Centre or contact our support team.

V5C logbook/registration certificate

The V5C, V5 – or vehicle logbook as it’s also called – is the legal document that registers your car with the DVLA. It’s the most important document you’ll have in relation to ownership of your car and any change of ownership or address must be promptly updated on the V5C.

It’s also a vital document for potential buyers as it contains all the important information about the car (manufacturer, colour, engine size, VIN and registration number), including the name and address of the registered keeper.

If you’re buying a used car from a dealer, they will sort out the V5C for you. If you’re buying privately, you’ll need to run all the necessary checks on the V5C carefully yourself.

Things to look out for:

  • Check that the address on the V5 and the details of the car match with the car you’re trying to buy and its location.

  • Hold up the V5C to the light to see if the DVL watermark displays. If it’s not there, the V5 could be a forgery.

  • If the person selling you the car isn’t the person named as the registered keeper on the V5, ask them why. They could be selling on behalf of someone else, but it could also be a red flag.

  • If a seller can’t produce a valid V5C, it’s wise not to proceed.

  • If you think the VIN number or the serial number has been tampered with or if any part of the V5C is missing, or handwritten, don’t go ahead with the sale. Always check that the VIN and engine number on the car match those on the V5C.

MOT certificate/MOT history

MOT certificate/MOT history

MOT certificate/MOT history

An MOT is an annual test that every vehicle over three years old has to pass in order to meet legal road safety and environmental standards.

It’s important to review the MOT history of any used car you’re thinking of buying for any advisories (potential mechanical concerns) and any patterns in minor faults that could lead to major issues down the line. You should be presented with an MOT certificate (ideally along with a full-service history), but you can check the MOT history of any car online.

Service history

A car’s service history shows how well the car has been maintained. It’s a record of all maintenance and repairs performed on the car, including what work has been done and when, which parts have been replaced, and its mileage.

When you are assessing your potential new car, ideally you’ll be presented with a full service history (FSH), which should include:

  • Regular stamps in the service booklet from reputable garages

  • Receipts and invoices for work done

  • Dates and mileage at the time of each service

A well-documented full service history shows that all recommended service and maintenance records are available and up to date, demonstrating regular care and upkeep. It can even boost future resale value.

A partial service history means that some records are missing or absent, which could suggest gaps in maintenance and less thorough care.

Insurance

You must have insurance in place before you drive away. If you buy a second-hand car from a dealer, they can usually organise temporary ‘drive away’ insurance to allow you to drive your new vehicle home, but if you buy from a private seller you’ll need to organise this yourself.

Don’t worry, it’s easy to arrange – and plenty of insurers will offer this option. Each will have their own eligibility criteria, but in general you’ll need to be over 18, live permanently in the UK, have a full UK driving licence, no more than a certain number of penalty points on your licence and no driving disqualifications within the last year or two.

When shopping around for a long-term insurance policy, be sure to:

  • Check the cover level (fully comprehensive is the gold standard and is actually cheaper than 3rd party insurance)

  • Check that named drivers are included (some will charge more than others for this)

  • Always look out for extra fees!

It can be a good idea to use comparison websites to help you find the best deals on car insurance.

Road tax (vehicle excise duty)

Road tax (vehicle excise duty)

Road tax (vehicle excise duty)

Alongside the insurance, top of your to-do list is sorting the road tax. When you buy a used car, the road tax is not transferable from the seller to the new owner – you must tax the car in your own name before you can drive it.

Luckily, it’s quick and easy to tax your car online. Alternatively you can do it over the phone, or in person at a post office.

You can check if a car is taxed, how much road tax is left on a vehicle and what the current tax rates are for the car on the government website. You’ll need the 11-digit reference number from your V5C.

Proof of purchase (sales receipt)

A proof of purchase for a used car is normally a sales receipt or bill of sale that documents the transaction between the buyer and seller. It’s a really important document to have because it serves as protection for both parties should any issues arise.

The proof of purchase should include all the key details about the sale, such as:

  • Names and contact details of both the buyer and seller

  • Full vehicle specifications

  • Price of the car and payment method

  • Date of the sale

The receipt should be signed by both buyer and seller and a copy kept by both parties as proof of purchase and payment.

Warranty documents

Warranty documents

Warranty documents

A warranty is a type of insurance that offers some financial protection if things go wrong with your car. In general, they cover the cost of mechanical or electrical repairs to a car (along with labour costs) that may arise within a set timeframe, i.e. the warranty period. There are different types of warranties: manufacturer warranties, dealer warranties and extended warranties, and their duration and policies can vary widely.

Manufacturer warranty

Most brand-new cars come with a three-year manufacturer’s warranty, which expires at the end of the term or after you’ve reached a certain mileage, e.g. 60,000 miles. Some manufacturers offer warranties for as long as five or seven years.

Usually, if you buy a used car and it’s under the mileage limit or the timeframe set by the manufacturer, then the warranty will still apply. Always check the warranty document paperwork to see how long is left on an outstanding warranty and what the terms and conditions are.

Extended warranty

An extended warranty is simply a new policy that extends the existing agreement. Once the original warranty expires you may have the option to buy an extended policy from the manufacturer, or from a third-party provider.

Dealer warranty

If you buy a used car from a dealer, you will likely be asked if you want to take out a dealer warranty. This could last anything from a few months to several years and may be included in the purchase price or offered as an optional extra.

If you buy privately you might decide to take out a third-party warranty, but do shop around for these as the level of cover you are offered will depend on the age and condition of the car.

All warranties will come with age and mileage limits: many won’t cover vehicles over 10 years old or with more than 100,000 miles on the clock, for example, so if the used car you are buying is on the older side it might not be worth taking one out.

Vehicle history check/HPI check

Vehicle history check/HPI check

Vehicle history check/HPI check

It’s wise to run a vehicle history check on any used car you’re thinking of buying – even for a trusted sale – to rule out any serious unseen problems with the car.

Many organisations offer basic vehicle checks online, including the RAC, the AA and Autotrader, with the option to pay for a more comprehensive check. Basic vehicle checks will confirm the make, model, age, engine size, tax history and MOT status – but it’s always worth paying for a more comprehensive vehicle check, such as the HPI check, if you can. This will tell you if:

  • The car has been written off

  • If it’s listed as stolen

  • If there is any outstanding finance left to pay

Find out more about HPI checks and why they matter.

Buying with finance? Extra documents you might need

If you’re buying a car with finance, be ready to supply some additional documents of your own, such as:

  • Name and address

  • Proof of address

  • ID (passport and/or driving licence)

  • Proof of income

Check out our helpful guides: Car finance and What to look for when buying a used car for everything you need to know and what you can expect from the car buying process.

Final thoughts

Final thoughts

Final thoughts

Buying a used car doesn’t need to be stressful if you know what to look out for. Take your time to inspect the documents we’ve outlined in this guide, make sure the details match with the car, and don’t be afraid to walk away if something doesn’t feel right. Any legitimate seller will understand a thorough approach, and it could save you from costly mistakes down the line.

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